Kaiserschmarrn

The „Emperor’s foolishness“ is a traditional Austrian/Bavarian dish which is usually only offered for at least two people with the warning that it will take 20 minutes. Made from a sweet batter of flour, eggs, sugar, and milk, the key to this dish is getting the proper caramelization right before serving. Rum-soaked raisins are also thrown in the mix, which are also caramelized in the process. I find the best examples are not too cake-like and offer thinner pieces which caramelize better. When served, the dish most often comes with a apple sauce. Some variations offer it with plum, nuts, cherries, apples, etc. It doesn’t take 20 mintes to make, but it does require the full attention of the chef when making it – hence, the wait time.

There are a few legends about the origin of the dish, but all center around Franz Josef I of the Austro-Hungarian empire and his Bavarian wife, Elisabeth – commonly known as Sisi. Sisi was very conscious of her waistline and there is some speculation that she was anorexic. Regardless, getting her to eat was an issue. Wanting to promote her health and put a little meat on her bones, Franz-Josef directed his chef to come up with a rich, irresistible dish. When it was present, Franz-Josef loved it, but Sisi asked, “Was für ein Schmarrn ist das?” (What sort of foolishness is this) and refused to eat it.

The dish is often eaten as a dessert, but it can also double as a main dish especially when out hiking. Here are my personal tips for where to enjoy the best examples:

Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom: Located just to the rear of Munich’s Frauenkirche, I am consistently impressed with all of their food, but their Kaiserschmarrn is the best in the city. The dark wood panelled rooms give you the feeling of old Germany, and I think it’s best to enjoy this dish with a Doppebock beer in season, or a dark beer if not.

Schneider Brauhaus: Located just off Marienplatz in Tal 7, Schneider offers a wonderful example of Kaiserschmarn and having it here allows for an excellent paring. Try the dish the Eisbock (12%) or the Aventinus (8.2%). That’s perfection

If you get off to the mountains, ordering this dish in a mountain hut is usually a safe bet. One of my favorites is at the Kaiserschmarrn Alm near Garmisch. This hut can easily be combined with a walk through the Partnachklamm Gorge – a slot canyon