What is Starkbierfest?

During Lent, Monks, in particular, should be fasting and refraining from solid food. One monk, Salavator, figured that while eating was verboten, drinking was not. Since he knew a thing or two about brewing beer, he brewed a batch of strong beer - "strong" meaning brewed with less water, leaving more grain in it. They say one liter of "starkbier" is like eating 16 loaves of bread. Salvator's brew was quite popular with the brothers, to say the least. However, one of them felt that what they were doing might not be quite "Kosher" and they resolved to send a shipment of the beer to Rome for the Pope to judge for himself.

The beer was loaded onto a wagon to begin it's long trek south. It bounced around on the horse-drawn flatbed as it crossed southern Germany and entered the Alps. The altitude increased and the temperature got cold; then warmer as they descended into the Alpine Valleys. Finally Austria was crossed and they arrived into Italy. From there, the temperature got ever warmer, as the shipment neared Rome. Even after the long journey, much time went by before an audience with the Pope was arranged. Salvator told the Pope about his brew and the concern that drinking it was showing the proper penitence which Lent demanded. The Pope decided that he shoudl taste the brew. Since this beer had been exposed to severe temperature changes and had bounced around for weeks on the carriage, the Pope declared it undrinkable. Further, he said, if the Munich Monks can drink this foul brew, then they are the most penitent men in the entire Catholic world.

Salvator returned home satisfied with the Pope's blessing and the tradition of Starkbier was born. Henceforth the original is called "Salvator" and is brewed only by the Paulaner Brewery. Every other brewery has deveoped a similar brew and names their product with the -ator suffix in honor of Salvator!

Tradition. Authenticity. Gemütlichkeit. The cool ceramic mug holds a liter of rich, dark beer, foam running down the side. Delivered by a beautifully attired woman with hands full of steins, a one liter tall beer mug is placed in front of you. Glancing to your left, your tablemates, attired in Lederhosen and Dirndls look at you expectantly. A fresh Maß awaits. Making eye contact, you raise your stein and offer, "Prost!" Quickly, your tablemates respond - mugs lift, ceramic steins clink. Together, you take a healthy gulp of slightly sweet beer. Simultaneously, hefty steins return to the table, causing it to shake. The men use the back of their hands to wipe the froth from their mouths and laughter ensues as you all share a moment together. Conversation ensues, and a temporary friendship is built. For this evening, you drink together, tell stories, eat together, and laugh together. This is Bavaria. These are Bavarians.

Everyone has heard of Oktoberfest. Starkbierfest is almost unknown. It's like its big cousin, but somehow better. Oompah music mixed with Oldies we all know. Hearty fare complements the beer and attempts to stave off the effects of the 8.1% alcohol beer. Thousands on their feet, dancing on benches, singing along to the music. And laughter, lots of laughter. This is an evening at Paulaner am Nockherherg, the prime location of Bavaria's Starkbierfest. It all began with a monk named, Salvator. Required to refrain from food for 40 days in observance of Jesus' time in the desert, Salvator found a loophole: Eating is denied, but drinking is allowed. Thus was born the Starkbier, the hefty bock. Yes, it is higher in alcohol, but the name derives from its being brewed with less water and, therefore, more grain. A liter, it is said, holds the equivalent of 16 loaves of bread! (www.nockherberg.com)

During the days of Lent, all of Bavaria's breweries create a version of Starkbier. Just like the originator, Salvator from the Paulaner Brewery, most varieties end with the ator appendix: Optimator, Triumphator, Maximator, Terminator, and countless others. Even though the weather in Munich is cold, it's hot inside with plenty of fresh beer to be tried. Each weekend, most of the big Beer halls have a special event cooking to celebrate the season. The Augustiner Keller and Löwenbräukeller both have live music going, but smaller venues can be even more interesting. The Augustiner Bräustuben is a small beer hall located next to the Augustiner brewery. Unknown in North American, Augustiner is the clearly the number 1 brewery in Munich. Their Bräustuben is located in where the draft horses used to be housed: Now it's full of all walks to life. Venture in here and you will meet the locals and they will meet you! (www.braeustuben.de)

Mid-week, try out the Forschungsbrauerei. This family run business is purposely kept small to ensure quality. The ceramic beer mugs are cooled to an exact temperature to ensure you beer is properly presented. The regular beer is excellent, but the rare "blond bock" is a treat: St. Jakobus Blonder Bock will have you coming back for more. Order the roasted chicken and you'll be advised that you need to wait one hour. It's worth it. (www.forschungsbrauerei.de)

Far outside Munich is a small monastery well worth the pilgrimage. If you had only one day to experience Bavaria, Kloster Andechs is the destination. Known to the locals as "the holy mountain" the monks maintain a completely contained life. They have their own gardens, fields, butcher, dairy, distillery, and, of course, brewery. One sip of the monk's Doppelbock Beer and even an atheist will agree it was brewed by someone very close to God.  Order a Maß (one liter) and get in line for lunch. Try the Schweinehaxe, Pig Knuckle. The crunchy outer skin is a delicacy that must be enjoyed with your Doppelbock. Stop off at the cheese counter and order up the Obatzda and some of the Romador cheese with a big pretzel. Share with your tablemates and you'll be sure to make some friends. Visit the Roccoco church between rounds and gaze southward to the Alps. Spend the day here and enjoy the richness Bavaria has to offer. (http://www.andechs.de)

Don't like dark beer? Leave your preconceived notions behind and give it an honest try. You simply can't compare the beer we have in North America with the fresh brewed original in Munich. And the rich atmosphere in which to enjoy it doesn't hurt at all either! Also known as Munich's fifth season, the weather is cooler and the tourists are scarce. With lower volumes, airfare and hotels are significantly cheaper - if you're into beer and Bavarian culture, this is the time to be in Munich. Since it is tied to the church calendar, the exact dates of Starkbierfest vary - The largest venue, Paulaner am Nockherberg, takes the lead in setting the dates. The season begins on the third Friday after Ash Wednesday and runs three weeks.